The Dress of the Toltecs Has an intimate relationship with its social division. Thanks to the pictorial samples that are preserved, we can get an idea of how this ancient civilization was dressed.
The Toltecs Is a Mesoamerican culture that was established in the north of the Mexican plateau between the tenth and twelfth centuries C. Its name in Nahuatl He referred to a person who was skilled in the arts and crafts.
For this reason, they have left us great monuments and many pictorial pieces, such as statues, reliefs, murals and ceramics that represented their gods and important personalities, where we can observe their customs and skills.
The most important Toltec city is Tula, which had approximately 30 thousand inhabitants. In this city erected buildings and temples dedicated to Quetzalcoalt, primordial deity that means feathered serpent.
At the top of a pyramid are 4 anthropomorphic sculptures that served as pillars of a roof. They portray warriors dressed in detail, who in turn represent the god.
Toltec society was strongly hierarchized and two classes were distinguished. On the one hand the group composed of military, rulers, nobles and priests who were privileged and maintained control and power. On the other hand a servile class made up of craftsmen, agricultural workers and professional professionals.
All these characteristics had an important impact on the way of dressing of the Toltecs and their relation with the development of their culture.
Characteristics of the clothing of Toltec culture
The social division of this culture generated a series of codes that would emphasize the hierarchical relations. A powerful person possessed a much more elaborate and rich outfit than ordinary people. These garments had many garments and demanded particular care and etiquette.
In view of the fact that only the ruling class and the gods were represented in the murals, reliefs, sculptures and codices, very little information is available on the popular classes. We can only find references in the Chronicles of the Indies once the Spaniards arrived.
We can infer from this information that the common Toltecs wore only a simple loincloth and a tangle, they were barefoot and with their torso naked. In the case of women, a huipil or blouse of rustic cloth was added to cover their breasts.
For its part, the powerful class had at its disposal a series of garments that reaffirmed their status within society and had not only an aesthetic function, but also communicated their privileges.
The women who managed to be consort of the powerful or had some religious responsibility, used the Quechquémitl , Which consists of two rectangles of cloth which upon joining and leaving an opening, has a triangular shape. This garment was also related to fertility.
The men, on the other hand, had the option to use numerous garments:
Belt
In most of the pictorial representations where you can appreciate the Toltec male clothing, you can see a belt that can be a strip of fabric tied or just a ribbon. Sometimes they serve to hold a mirror of black stone or a shield in the back.
Máxtlatl
The máxtlatl was a canvas that was tied in the front part, like the loincloth, to cover the genitals and leave the air to the legs.
Sometimes it was also tied in the back. This was the basic masculine garment of all Mesoamerican cultures.
Tangle
The plot consisted of a canvas that was tied next to the máxtlatl to cover the buttocks. Sometimes it was also used as a kind of apron. In the Toltec case, this apron could be much larger and decorative.
Tilmatli
The tilmatli was a species of layer that was tied around the neck and usually they were made with several lines of superposed feathers.
This was the most exclusive of the garments and only the powerful could carry them. There were strict rules that punished their use when they did not deserve it.
Cueitl
This garment is a male skirt that was reserved for gods , Priests and hierarchs. They could be decorated with semi-precious stones and used in ball games or war.
Ichcahuipilli
It consisted of a thick quilted fabric armor, animal skins or vegetal crust. All the warriors could use them and only differed by the materials in which they were made.
In the burnt temple of Tula a breastplate was found,"the Tula's breastplate"which was made with 1,413 shell and snail pendants placed with harmony and precision.
This armor could only be used by the Toltec elites, as it is even represented in some mythical characters and perhaps had a ritual use.
Played
A fundamental pledge to mark private lessons was the headdress. They were decorated with feathers and sometimes could be combined with a helmet.
These ornaments were used by elite warriors to differentiate themselves in battle
Xicolli
The xicolli was a decorated sleeveless shirt. Its use well summarizes the general state of the Toltec culture. At first it was used as part of the ritual in religious ceremonies.
However, it later became part of the military outfit. This change also operated in the form of government of the Toltecs.
In its beginnings its rulers were priests and the religion played an important paper in how its society was developed.
Later, that religious organization turned to more bellicose behavior that turned the leaders into warlike people with skills for battle.
Ornaments and category
Clothing was an element that marked the social stratification of Mesoamerican societies. In the Toltec case, the sophistication of one piece in front of another determined the category of those who carried it.
The exchange and the constant import of exotic materials allowed those of greater possibilities to create new confections and designs.
The accessories were quite influential in the showy and wonderful of some dress pieces. Not only were they decorated with precious stones and minerals, but also, depending on the function, they added to the costumes pieces of raw material such as food and plants.
The use of feathers as ornamental pieces attributed to the Toltecs was popularized in general with the rise of the Aztec empire.
The preparation and arrangement of the hair to match the rest of the costumes was also an important aspect within the ceremonial sphere in the Toltec civilization.
The Atlanteans of Tula
In one of the temples of Quetzalcoatl, you can see these four figures that have been called Atlanteans. They are anthropomorphic sculptures in which you can appreciate all the details of Toltec typical clothing: helmet or headdress, earmuffs, pectorals, bracelets, discs on the back, maxtlatl, musleras, knee pads and sandals.
Another interesting detail is that in the sculptures the armament of the time and the way of carrying it can be seen.
The four Atlanteans wielded the Atlatl with their right hands, a kind of thrower that served to cover greater distance, and on the left raised four long darts, a curved weapon and a vessel. In the forearm they carry a knife held by a bracelet.
The Atlanteans of Tula are a clear example of how the religion, social status, and manner of dress of the Toltecs were intimately related.
References
- Anawalt, Patricia (1985). "The Ethnic History of the Toltecs as Reflected in Their Clothing". Indiana, 10, 129-145.
- Cartwright, Mark (2013). "Toltec Civilization". Retrieved from June 2, 2017 on ancient.eu.
- Ehecatl Quetzalcoatl (2013). "Prehispanic male clothing". Retrieved on June 2, 2017 at 4nahui.blogspot.mx.
- Ehecatl Quetzalcoatl (2013). "Old and Current Women's Clothing". Retrieved on June 2, 2017 at 4nahui.blogspot.mx.
- Gamboa Cabezas, Luis Manuel (2010). "The Atlanteans of Tula". Recovered on June 2, 2017 at inah.gob.mx.
- Gamboa Cabezas, Luis Manuel (2016). "The Burnt Palace, Tula. Six decades of research." Retrieved on June 2, 2017 enarqueologiamexicana.mx.
- Roura Olvera, Rafael (2017),"Atlantes of Tula. Toltec Warriors". Retrieved on June 2, 2017 at revistabuenviaje.com.